Golden Bay & Abel Tasman National Park

Landed in our idyllic beachside villa in Pohara Beach, Golden Bay at the northernmost tip of South Island, adjacent to Abel Tasman National Park. This is where the Dutch explorer discovered New Zealand; on his first venture ashore the local Maoris rammed his tender with their war canoe and killed 4 of his men - the inlet since named 'Murderers' Bay'.

This place is just beautiful, and all ours for 2 weeks - lots to explore.









Mutton Cove in the heart fo the Abel Tasman National Park - it took us five hours to walk to this photo opportunity!
...but were able to return by boat: minus my cool prescription shades which I lost below the briny!!

Our first forays were into the National Park, a fabulous mixture of forest and coastline, we've

already trudged miles of it......

There are caves, alpine meadows and perfect deserted beaches to explore.
We're able to collect fresh mussels from our own beach each low tide.

Spot the oldest stalactite!

Picnics on our cycle rides, and we're keeping an album of the most ingenious home-made camper-vans we come across. This one is basically a garden shed planted on top of an old bus.












Everywhere we go we stumble across families of Californian Quail with their newly hatched chicks not much bigger than bumble bees. They're pretty unafraid and seem to like being photographed!

New Zealand - South Island

12 December

We arrived in Christchurch (South Island's capital) after a 14 hour flight, via Sydney, from Buenos Aires - why we had to touch down in Australia, since it is further away, only Quantas Airline can explain. The contrast between the Aussie and Kiwi immigration 'welcome' was stark - (OZ-nul points!) Needless to say, we were exhausted and kept sleeping at odd times during the days that followed, before we found our equilibrium. To give you some idea of the time difference, we were 20 hours ahead of America, where we'd just left!

Landing in Christchurch is like discovering an Isle of Wight metropolis in the 1970s. So of course we prioritised the botanical gardens and museum where we toured around on their hi-tech bicycles.

Once out of town, we marvelled at the stunning scenery of the South Island, but were always expecting Orks to appear over the horizon!

13 December

After Christchurch, a French influenced town called Akaroa -
after the first French settlers in New Zealand. Set in a picturesque harbour, it contrived a mediterrranean ambience.

Managed to get Irene's portrait done in neo-classical style.

14 December

On our way to the north of South Island, we stayed in a log-built, ranch style studio (Riverside Farm) in Motueko, run by a couple who had emigrated from UK (Robin & Gaynor). Robin farms deer and made us a delicious venison supper.

Here's a typical bridge en route to Hamner Springs where we bathed in some of their natural, hot spas. Sadly we have no pics to show you of us getting in and out of the mostly 37 degree pools!

Buenos Aires

From Jacutinga Lodge we fly to Buenos Aires where we stay in an Art Deco Hotel, full of Warhol prints and fashionistas.


















We try to make sense of al fresco art and ...



















... get right into cafe life.......

























... street markets

... lively tangos!

We sail down the River Tigre with all its exclusive riverside homes.

We take a bus ride round the city, looking at the sites, including the Boca Juniors' football stadium where Maradonna is still worshipped and Juan Pablo Angel started his career - Anton is caught about to take off with the South Americas' Cup!

In the evenings we would walk the sultry streets in search of modest, local cuisine (yet more meat!) and met loads of friendly people of all nationalities, including a group of Mexicans who'd kept in touch since they were at school together, the last 4 survivors of bachelorhood from their original primary school group. Now just Pedro and his 3 mates remain!

An evening's entertainment with tango artists & band (it was very dark!)

Jacutinga Lodge nr.Iguassu Falls, Argentina

We spent three days at Yacutinga Lodge, an eco-hotspot in the epicentre of the remaining Argentine rainforest, where insects rule and there are no creature comforts.
Monkeys scrabbled on our hut roof at night, to the crescendo of jungle concert.

We drank iced mate (local tea) and croc. prepared by the local Indians who were being 'educated' into the eco-tourism idustry.


















Our native guides trailed us through dense undergrowth and paddled us along muddy Iguazzu tributaries, avoiding snakes and marvelling at the fabulous, exotic birds; parrots and mot-mots swang on our porch-perch before breakfast.





































We kayacked down to meet the huge Iguassu River, which if we'd gone on for a further few hours, would have led us to the Falls - white water rafting down the rapids!

Extraordinary exotic plants and bird nests filled the forest.

What is indescribable about life in this environment is the noise, a constant, competetive cacophony from ground to canopy and light to dark. Even the cicadas, about 3 inches long, just belt it out like tomcats in massed bands of thousands. Other monsters squeal and squawk deafeningly.

A close up of beetle life and ......

...... a very large lizard

A close-up of lots and lots of mating beetle bugs!


















This is our cabin inside & out - lots of coloured bottles made up ours and many of the lodge's ethnic walls.
































We arrived and left by the special Jacutinga Lodge jungle truck helmed by the charismatic: all-knowing,all-seeing Italian/Argentinian guide (Corino) who didn't stop trying to educate us in the ways of the beguiling wildlife - he had even perfected the most obscure birdsong and howler monkey sounds to encourage their presence.

It was with some sadness when we finally said our goodbyes, leaving us feeling somewhat ignorant in our very limited knowledge of life on earth.